Not a whole lot to update. As I noted in my last post the majority of my wearing in is coming from the stuff I carry in my pockets. That being said I am starting to get some good whiskering on the front and back of my knees. I’m hoping this results in some great honeycombing down the line. I have been wearing these everyday for the most part since I got them the second week of December, and haven’t washed them yet. I expected to have more drastic fading at this point, but I’m no urban woodsman so I guess I have to bide my time.
So far I am very satisfied with the D+D #1198′s. They fit my build well and they’re comfortable while looking good. A combination I have struggled mightily to find. In spite of that there are cons to anything and everything, so I’m going to rip on them today. Here’s a nit picking list of changes I’d make, additions I think should have been made, or things I’m concerned about.
Hidden back pocket rivets – I know its a small bone to pick, and functionally you’re not gaining much, but its a fit and finish issue. For jeans exceeding $200 I expect all the small details, hidden back pocket rivets are one of them and their absent on the #1198′s.
The high yoke -I’ve spoken to AB Fits about this one, and they agree. The yoke could stand to be dropped down a little bit. The rise on the #1198′s is more of a mid-rise, but the yoke is very high. When raw they were touching a couple inches up my lower back (you can see in the original pictures) giving a slightly odd appearance, especially when tucking in a shirt. As they’ve worn in that extra fabric from the yoke has dropped down a little, and caused the seat to be kind of saggy at times. It also causes some puckering at the back of the waistband, which is annoying. This would be my top change to this cut in the future.
Opening of the leg – I feel gross even saying this, but I think a slight (very slight) taper from the knee down would be beneficial. The leg opening can be slightly large and can tend to swallow up footwear. This can also lead to some dragging and premature tearing at the heel.
Denim weight – The #1198′s are 13.5oz Japanese denim, but they wear a little light. There were definitely points during the winter I wished they were more along a 15 or 16oz. That lightness will however prove a blessing come summer as they shouldn’t get relegated to the closet.
Stitching – Both back pockets have stitching coming out, the right hand one has an excuse since I clip my knife there every day. The left hand pocket should be ashamed of itself.


